The last two centimetres of a necklace take more judgement than the rest of the strand. The finish at the clasp has to hide the end knots, carry the full weight of the piece, and look as considered as the beads it holds. This guide covers the four GRIFFIN findings that make that finish, how to choose between them by cord diameter, and where the glue goes. Every component named here is in the GRIFFIN Clasps and Findings collection, and the guide is written for the bench, the bead shop, and the trade buyer stocking both.
The four ways a knotted strand meets its clasp
A Bell Cap covers the end knots in a small dome, and its eye takes a jump ring or the clasp. It is the classic finish for knotted pearl and gemstone strands.
A Squeeze Capsule encloses the end knots in a small capsule that is closed over them. The 4.0 mm version has a thread-hole that connects the cord directly.
A Tube End takes the cord, or a bundle of cords or wires, inside a tube that ends in a closed eye. It suits thicker cord and multi-strand bundles.
A Bead Cord/Wire End is a fine terminator made for silk threads of small diameter, where a cap or tube would look heavy.
Double Eye Tags work alongside all four as connectors between the finding and the clasp.
Bell Caps: open-eye and closed-eye sizes
Bell Caps with open eye come in 3, 4, 5, and 6 mm. The open eye lets you attach the clasp directly and then close the eye, which saves a jump ring on fine pieces.
Bell Caps with closed eye come in 3, 4, 5, 6, and 8 mm, with a large soldered eye. A soldered eye cannot open under load, which makes it the safer choice for heavy strands. The 8 mm size covers larger knot clusters and suits pieces with large beads.
Choose the Bell Cap by two measurements: it must cover the cluster of end knots completely, and it should not overpower the last bead. For 6 mm to 8 mm pearls on a mid-size cord, 4 mm or 5 mm is the usual range.
Squeeze Capsules, including the 4.0 mm version with a thread-hole
Squeeze Capsules come in 3.0, 4.0, and 5.0 mm, plus a 4.0 mm version with a thread-hole. The standard sizes close over the end knots like a small shell and present a neat, round end beside the last bead. Stringers who know the knot cover as a calotte will recognise the principle.
The thread-hole version connects a single cord directly. Knot the cord ends together and guide them through the thread-hole. Place another knot tight against the capsule, trim the excess cord at the first knot, secure the knot with GRIFFIN Bead Cord Glue, and close the capsule. The clasp then attaches to the capsule through a jump ring.
Tube Ends with a closed eye, by inside diameter
Tube Ends with closed eye come in four inside diameters: 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, and 5.0 mm. The cord or bundle is glued inside the tube, and the closed eye forms the loop for the clasp, so no knot is needed at the end.
The inside diameter decides the job. The 2.0 mm and 2.5 mm sizes take a thick single cord or a small bundle. The 3.0 mm size takes a larger bundle, and the 5.0 mm size takes multi-strand bundles of many cords. Tube Ends are glued with GRIFFIN Superglue, which bonds almost all materials. To prepare a bundle, bind the ends with fine wire, trim them level, and glue the bundle into the tube.
Double Eye Tags and Bead Cord/Wire Ends
Double Eye Tags measure 5.0 mm by 3.0 mm, made from 0.8 mm wire. They work like jump rings with two attachment points, which spreads the load between the finding and the clasp. They are useful for multi-component pieces and for joining a finding to a clasp whose loop sits at an awkward angle.
Bead Cord/Wire Ends come in 0.5, 0.8, 1.1, and 1.5 mm and are made for silk threads with small diameters. On a fine strand, they finish the cord neatly without the bulk of a cap.
All of these jewellery components are available in 925 sterling silver or with a 24K gold-plated. GRIFFIN clasps and findings are made of 925 sterling silver, nickel-free; the gold-plated versions feature 24K gold plating, 7 microns thick on 925 sterling silver findings. Use one metal throughout a piece: a silver cap with a gold-plated clasp reads as a specification error to anyone who knows jewellery.
Choosing by cord diameter rather than by look
Start from the cord, because the cord fixes what the finding has to hold.
Fine cords from 0.30 mm to 0.50 mm, GRIFFIN sizes No. 0 to No. 3, produce small end knots. A Bead Cord/Wire End, a 3 mm Bell Cap, or a 3.0 mm Squeeze Capsule keeps the finish in proportion.
Mid-range cords from 0.60 mm to 0.80 mm, No. 4 to No. 8, cover most pearl and gemstone strands. Bell Caps from 4 mm to 6 mm, or Squeeze Capsules at 4.0 mm and 5.0 mm, take the knot cluster comfortably.
Heavy cords from 0.90 mm to 1.05 mm, No. 10 to No. 16, tie large knots. Use a 6 mm or 8 mm Bell Cap with a closed eye, or a Tube End if the end is bundled rather than knotted.
Multi-strand bundles go into Tube Ends sized to the bundle, or onto Multi-Strand Ends for separate rows.
Where the glue goes and where it must not
Glue belongs on the end knots and nowhere else. Apply a small amount of GRIFFIN Bead Cord Glue to the final knot cluster, let it penetrate, trim close, and then close the cap or capsule over it. Bead Cord Glue is designed for cord and thread: it is compatible with silk and nylon, free of softeners and solvents, and stays permanent and flexible after drying.
Keep glue off the beads and away from the knot beside the last bead. Glue that wicks along the cord stiffens it at the point that flexes most when the necklace is worn, and the strand will eventually fail there. Glue on the bead marks its surface, which is especially visible on pearls.
Tube Ends are the exception to the cord-only rule: the bundle is glued inside the tube with GRIFFIN Superglue, because the tube needs to hold a cut end rather than a knot.
Multi-row strands: 2-, 3- and 4-row ends and slide locks
Strands of two, three, or four rows need a finding that keeps the rows spaced and in order. Multi-Strand Ends come in 2-row, 3-row, and 4-row versions. Each row is finished with its own Bell Cap or Squeeze Capsule and then connected to its position on the end.
For a clasp that holds the rows flat and parallel, Slide Lock Clasps come in 2-row, 3-row, and 4-row versions, at 17.5, 22.5, and 27.5 mm. Match the clasp length to the width of the strands as they lie. For the earlier steps in a knotted piece, see How to Start and Finish a Pearl Knotted Necklace.
Costing and quoting this at the bench
The finish is a fixed cost per strand, so it is easy to quote. A single knotted strand uses two Bell Caps or two Squeeze Capsules, one clasp, two to four jump rings, and a little Bead Cord Glue. A multi-row piece multiplies the caps by the number of rows and adds the Multi-Strand Ends or a Slide Lock Clasp.
Price the time by the finish, not the length. A Bell Cap finish is quick; a multi-row piece with individually capped rows takes considerably longer and should be quoted that way. For stock, caps, capsules, and Tube Ends come in packs of 10 or 100 pieces, and orders above the published thresholds on the Discount page reduce the cost per piece.
A finishing decision table
|
Cord or construction |
Recommended finish |
Sizes |
|
Fine silk, No. 0 to No. 3 |
Bead Cord/Wire End, or a small Bell Cap |
0.5 or 0.8 mm end; 3 mm cap |
|
Mid-range cord, No. 4 to No. 8 |
Bell Cap or Squeeze Capsule |
4 to 6 mm cap; 4.0 or 5.0 mm capsule |
|
Single cord, direct connection |
Squeeze Capsule with thread-hole |
4.0 mm |
|
Heavy cord, No. 10 to No. 16 |
Bell Cap with closed eye |
6 or 8 mm |
|
Bundle of cords or wires |
Tube End with closed eye |
2.0, 2.5, 3.0, or 5.0 mm inside |
|
Two to four rows |
Multi-Strand Ends or Slide Lock Clasp |
2, 3, or 4-row; 17.5, 22.5, or 27.5 mm |
Conclusion
Finishing a beaded necklace comes down to choosing the right component for the cord. Bell Caps are the classic cover for knotted strands, with a closed eye for heavier pieces. Squeeze Capsules give a neat round end, and the thread-hole version connects a single cord directly. Tube Ends take bundles, and Bead Cord/Wire Ends keep fine silk light. Choose by cord diameter first and appearance second, keep the glue on the end knots and off the beads, and use one metal throughout. For a quote, the finish is a fixed count of components per strand, multiplied by the number of rows.
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